We doused ourselves with scent-reduction spray and then slowly made our way to my nephew’s treestand that we’d hung in a 75-year-old red oak devoid of acorns that year.

As we approached the tree, I patted my nephew on the back and whispered, “Good luck.”

“Are you sure we’re at the right tree?” he asked. “I don’t see the stand.”

Never hang a stand without a good, strong chain and lock–even on private land.

Shining a red light up the tree, I could see the marks the stand’s gripping teeth had made in the bark, but the treestand was gone. Someone had stolen it.

Never hang a stand without a good, strong chain and lock—even on private land.

“Having your stand stolen is probably the most frustrating thing a hunter can experience,” said Ohio deer hunter Trey Davis. “I’ve had three stolen, and for me, it feels worse than missing a buck.”

Sadly, thefts of treestands and other hunting equipment such as game cameras are common occurrences, especially in areas with heavy hunting pressure. To make matters worse, most stands and trail cameras are stolen by other hunters.

According to Michigan Department of Natural Resources (MDNR) Conservation Officer (CO) Bobbi Lively, hunters often don’t report a theft, because they don’t want to cast a negative light on other hunters–or they believe nothing can be done.

“Hunters should still report the incident, because we do recover some stolen equipment each year,” said Lively.

States also don’t keep records on hunting equipment thefts, making it impossible to measure the problem. But talk to just about any CO or public-land hunter, and you’ll quickly learn that many have had their hunt ruined before it even began because someone walked away with their stands; alternatively, all the information they had gathered about deer in their hunting area suddenly vanished because someone lifted their trail cameras.

Anyone who’s ever been a victim of treestand and/or game camera theft knows the heavy toll it takes on a hunter’s wallet, hunting plans and sense of security. Let’s take a look at how to prevent treestand and camera theft, as well as what to if you become a victim.

An Ounce of Prevention

The truth of the matter is that the only foolproof treestand theft-prevention method is to never leave a stand in the woods when you’re not using it. Like any other piece of property, if a thief wants it badly enough, he’ll get it.

As a former criminologist, I can tell you that most larcenies are crimes of opportunity and are not planned out. Treestand thefts are no different. John Louk, president of the Treestand Manufacturers’ Association, agrees.

“Most guys don’t go into the woods looking for treestands to steal,” said Louk. “They’re just in the woods, see one available and take it.”

I can also tell you treestand thieves are no different from any other thief: They tend to be lazy and don’t like working hard for anything, including your treestand. Since it’s not practical to hang and remove your stand on every hunt (unless state regulations require it), the best way to prevent theft is to make your stand hard to steal. To do that, hide it, hang it high, lock it up and remove your climbing aid.

Hide it. Place treestands deeper in the woods, away from heavily used trails or places where they can be spotted easily from the road with a pair of binoculars. If a crook doesn’t find your stand, it can’t be lifted.

“I still see a lot of hunters on public land who only walk in about 100 yards and place their stands where they are easily found,” noted Lively.

Hang it high. Remember that treestand thieves are lazy. If they come across one stand that’s 12 feet off the ground and another one that’s 20, which one do you think they’ll steal? Those few feet can make a crook think twice about taking your stand. So hang your stand 20 or 25 feet up, and you’ll make it harder to steal–and also harder for deer to spot you.

Lock it up. Put a strong cable lock around your stand and attach it to the tree. When choosing a lock, pick one that’s thick and manufactured to resist severing by bolt-cutters. Most treestand manufacturers also make cable locks and color them black, making them difficult to spot from the ground. But don’t hide the lock: If a thief finds your stand, you want him to see the lock securing it to the tree. I like to use a heavy log chain, a can of rubber coating spray and a bulletproof lock to quietly keep my stand in the tree.

“Treestands found on private land are often easier to steal, because people don’t think they need to chain or lock them up, “said MDNR Sergeant Jon Wood, hunter education program supervisor.

Take your climbing aid with you. After prepping your stand, remove the bottom two portions of the climbing sticks or ladder. Take them with you or hide them nearby. Doing this will not only deter treestand theft, it will also prevent your climbing aid from being stolen.

If you’ve been a victim of theft, set up a game camera to catch a thief red-handed. As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. What better way to prove someone stole your stand than to have a picture of the perpetrator carrying out the crime?

This worked for Indiana hunter, Glen Ransbottom, who had a ladder stand stolen from his private property. His camera took photos of the two thieves hauling the stand away. The defendants claimed they were just moving their stand and accidentally wandered onto Ransbottom’s property–the jury didn’t buy it.

“The trail camera photo was the key piece of evidence,” said Ransbottom. “I don’t care how many acres you own, it just burns you when someone goes on your land and steals your stand.”

The only problem with using a game camera to prevent treestand theft is that thieves love to steal those as well. Let’s look at how to thwart trail camera thieves.

Many of today’s game cameras are small and difficult to detect, but it’s still best to secure them to a tree with a strong cable and lock.

Preventing Camera Theft

As with treestands, hide your cameras and secure them with a good, strong chain and lock. When determining where to place a camera, try thinking like a thief. What’s the most likely route he’ll take to get to and from your stand? Place your camera along that route about 30 or 40 yards from your stand.

A few years ago, Iowa bowhunter, Matt McConnell, had two stands stolen on the same day. Determined to prevent a third theft, he placed a nonworking game camera near a beech tree that held another treestand. He then placed a functioning camera 50 yards away along the trail leading to the stand. The thief stole both the treestand and the decoy camera but didn’t realize the real camera had taken a photo of him holding both the stand and the other camera.

“It turned out the guy had stolen my other two stands, and the police found them in his garage,” McConnell said. “I got all my stands back.”

Another way to prevent camera theft is to hang cameras 15 feet off the ground and point them downward. Most thieves don’t think to look for cameras so high up, and it’s a great way to get panoramic photos displaying how deer use your hunting areas.

Finally, place a small, laminated sign next to the camera that reads, “CAUTION: Area under video surveillance.” Research shows that if a would-be thief thinks there’s a possibility that he’s being recorded, he’s less likely to steal an item. Gas stations often do this to prevent gasoline theft. Oftentimes, owners don’t have any surveillance equipment, but customers don’t know that.

Muzzy's new MX-3 125 is a great broadhead to consider when switching from 100- to 125-grain point weight. This head is well balanced, in terms of aerodynamics, blade width and all-out toughness.

I noticed that a lot of advanced bowhunters are shooting heavier broadheads. Is this for more arrow weight and energy or to increase front of center and accuracy? Also, can you recommend any great 125 three-blade broadheads for doing this?

Dave Jenson, via e-mail

From our experience, a slightly heavier broadhead enhances accuracy downrange, particularly beyond the 50-yard mark. Most pros do this in order to up the arrow’s front-of-center weight, which better stabilizes the shaft in a crosswind, making it more accurate and more forgiving to shoot. This is the primary benefit and the reason most bowhunters use heavier broadheads. Added overall arrow weight and downrange energy is a side benefit.

There are several excellent 125 heads on the market to choose from, but one that we’ve become very impressed with is the new Muzzy MX-3 125. This head is superbly compact, wide-cutting and promises top penetrating performance, thanks to its legendary elongated Trocar-style tip. It shoots outstandingly, despite high speed.

Other great 125 three-blade heads include the Shuttle T-Lock, G5 Striker, Slick Trick, Wasp Boss, Vantage Point Terminator, Wac ‘Em and Sullivan Extreme SS, to name a few.–Joe Bell, editor

I’m working on ironing out my shooting form, and one area of confusion is my bow arm. I know a relaxed bow arm is part of good form, but should I keep it straight or just unlocked or bent downward? The pros and cons for each style would be great. Thanks.

Larry Samuels, via e-mail

Employing a super-rigid and straight bow arm may work for some, but for most archers, it will promote muscle activity in the arm and shoulder and make for shaky aiming. The best shooting techniques limit the use of these muscles, other than those in your back.

 On the other hand, an unlocked, relaxed and low-protruding elbow joint may keep your shoulder muscle (deltoid) inactive; it could produce gross inconsistency, since it’s difficult to duplicate your elbow position exactly from one shot to the next. This will obviously affect draw length feel and accuracy.

 Ultimately, we prefer a highly relaxed bow arm with the elbow joint just unlocked, and no more. This simplifies things and produces highly repeatable shooting form, which is the ultimate goal.–Joe Bell, editor

Very small arrow rest and/or nock-point adjustments won't affect a bow's tune, but they will affect how broadheads impact the target.

Hi, Joe. I’ve read several times that when tuning your bow, you can sometimes make small adjustments to the arrow rest and/or arrow’s nocking point height in order to get identical impact with broadheads and field points. I understand this method, but won’t this affect paper tuning? Won’t small adjustments “un-tune” a bow that’s already been tuned this way and disrupt straight arrow flight?

Also, logically, it seems as if moving the nock and arrow rest to change broadhead impact has to also change field point flight and impact. Thoughts?

D.M., via e-mail

I know; it seems confusing, doesn’t it? The reason this works without affecting arrow flight is because field points are more forgiving and more tolerable of slight tuning changes, whereas broadheads are not. This applies to both paper tuning and point-of-impact.

Many times, a slight change to the nock height or arrow rest won’t affect field point impact at all–given that the change is slight. I’ve seen this many times, especially when shooting from 40 yards or fewer. With many setups I’ve used in the past, I’ve tuned my field points and broadheads to hit in the same spot out to about 40 or 45 yards. Beyond that distance, the broadheads would usually hit lower or higher from the field points, no matter what I tried to do, adjustment-wise. Much of this has to do with the sensitivity of broadhead flight dynamics, FOC or the bow’s nock travel (it could be faulty vertically or horizontally).

Some weird stuff goes on when you put blades at the front or change the arrow’s FOC point slightly (this happens because broadheads are always longer in shape than field points).–Joe Bell, editor

How light should the release's trigger be? Ultimately, it's a personal choice, and the only way to ascertain the answer is through experimentation.

Hey, Joe. I’ve been experimenting with trigger pull and was wondering what you use. Do you prefer a hair trigger or a firm pull? It seems a hair trigger makes me a bit jumpy. Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Jim Perry, via e-mail

Hi, Jim. There’s a fine line between too light and too firm in my experience. Of course, this will vary for each shooter, because everyone’s strength and shooting techniques are a bit different. Personally, I do prefer a fairly light trigger, but not too light. Too light sets the shot off too quickly sometimes, which prevents that surprise release I’m looking for.

I try to adjust the release’s trigger so that when applying back tension, the shot breaks in about 4 or 5 seconds. Any sooner, and my mind begins picking up on it and can predict when the shot will happen. I don’t want this; I want to be surprised and focused on the process of aiming or applying back tension–nothing else.–Joe Bell, editor

Mathews' Z7 Magnum offers a great blend of smoothness and blazing arrow speed (340 IBO), but some shooters may find the bow's brace height slightly intolerant of shooting mistakes. If so, the EZ7, Z7 Xtreme or Z7 offer better choices for such archers.

I’m on the fence regarding which new bow is right for me? I’m looking at the Mathews Z7 Magnum and EZ7. I do like a fairly fast bow, but I still demand an easy-shooting rig. Would this mean the Magnum is wrong for me? Any suggestion would be great.

M.C., via e-mail

The entire Z-Series of bows is great: They’re smooth, fast and recoil-free. The Z7 Magnum is definitely a top choice for most, because it retains the same shooting and draw-cycle qualities of the original and well-praised Z7, but shoots about 10 fps faster, thanks to a slightly shorter brace height.

The EZ7, on the other hand, is still fairly fast at 321 fps IBO, but it sports one of the smoothest draw cycles of any bow on the market and uses a slightly more forgiving 7-inch brace height. Both bows, the EZ7 and Magnum, are 32 inches, axle to axle.

Our advice is this: If you feel forgiveness outweighs speed, in terms of your personal experience and shooting form, go with the EZ7. It won’t disappoint. However, if your shooting form is impeccable, and you tend to shoot pretty calmly on game, the Magnum is probably the bow for you. Of course, you owe it to yourself to shoot both extensively to gain some feel for each bow.–Joe Bell, editor.

Many bowhunters are under the impression that the faster the bow, the better it is for bowhunting. This just isn’t true. There are many factors that make up a great hunting bow, and blistering arrow speed isn’t the main one. Here are five elements that comprise a great hunting bow:

1.) Accuracy. If your bow doesn’t allow for great repeatability, day in, day out, how can it give you confidence about performing well at crunch time? It can’t. This is where shooting forgiveness is paramount—a component that allows for some shooting error.

Some bowhunters demonstrate consistent shooting form, even on “off” days or while under pressure, and bows with low-brace height speed bows (6 5/8 inches or fewer) are suitable for them. However, most bowhunters don’t have this kind of shooting control. For this reason, these bowhunters are better off with more-forgiving designs that come with slower IBO speeds. The same goes for bow axle length. Try several bows in various lengths and see what shoots most consistently for you.

2.) Smooth. A good hunting bow pulls smoothly and shoots the same, allowing for almost effortless operation. Many of today’s bows are engineered for maximum efficiency and speed, but the trade-off often comes with a “harsh” draw and shooting cycle. Avoid these as much as possible, because they’ll cause problems when you are afield.

3.) Fast Enough. A bow that is too slow is bad, too, since it will hurt trajectory and arrow energy. For this reason, examine all bows closely by test-shooting and analyzing speed capability. Then, decide which one offers the perfect blend of smooth-shooting performance and speed. This will make it more lethal for hunting.

4.) Great Aiming. Not all bows “aim” the same. Some simply stay on target better without strain. This is what you want; it’ll make the tough shots a bit more doable. Again, test-shoot various models and determine which is the best aimer. You’ll know what we mean when you “feel” it.

5.) Quiet. This could be the most important element. The quieter the thud, the less likely an animal is to jump at the shot, resulting in a poor hit. A quiet bow also makes back-up shots more of a chance. Quiet “misses” tend to keep animals within range, while loud ones don’t. It’s that simple.

During the later stages of the rut, food sources are still the best place to spend the last hours of daylight.

It had already been an amazing morning. I’d passed on two very mature bucks within easy shooting range in under a half-hour. With firearm season a day away, the only thing that gave me the resolve to pass was my belief that I could still take a larger buck.

The stand location was an obvious choice when I had scouted the area that spring. With three points dropping down and meeting together and a doe bedding areas above the intersection, bucks would surely be using the points to get between the doe groups. As an added bonus, the bottom also narrowed at this location, pinching any bottom running bucks to within shooting range. The cherry on top was the water hole 15 yards away from the tree I’d selected.

The combination provided everything one would want in a rut stand. Because of its converging points and the “pinched” bottom, it covered two separate funnels between multiple doe bedding areas. Along with that, the well-placed water source was a convenient stop for chase-weary bucks to quench their burning thirst. Finally, the points offered an escape route for bucks wanting to slip out the backdoor of doe bedding areas with their new girlfriends.

A conveniently located water hole, paired with two funnels separating doe groups, allowed the author to arrow this great late-rut buck.

I eventually saw what I was looking for–a big buck traveling with a doe, exiting this “back door.” Panting, tongue hanging, foamy strands of thick saliva dripping from his lower jaw, he’d obviously had a hard night and was now guiding his prize to a more secure area.

He also was going to give himself a water break en route. He was so intent on this that when the doe tried veering away from the pool, he circled and tined her hard in the side, redirecting her back toward the water.

However, my arrow found its mark before getting a drink was no longer an option. And just like that, I’d scored an awesome late-rut buck.

The longer I hunt, the more convinced I become that hunters often needlessly complicate hunting. No doubt, our mind is our most valued and powerful hunting weapon, and using it is critical to our success. Still, I do believe that keeping it simple is often the best route. That certainly applies to hunting during the late rut.

During the late rut, as with any other phase of the season, understanding what bucks want and how they meet those wants is key to getting in a position to score.

What Rutting Bucks Want

When it comes to hunting bucks during any phase of the season, there’s a tremendous advantage to answering a couple of simple questions.

What do bucks want during this phase? During the late rut, the obvious answer is to find the last few remaining estrous does. Even though there’s more to it than that, no one can argue that finding estrous does is of utmost importance to mature rutting bucks.

Of course, successfully securing her is another desire–one that’s not always easily accomplished. Even in areas with skewed buck-to-doe ratios, the competition between bucks for estrous does is intense. This is confirmed by studies that have found the most twins are actually sired by different bucks.

As powerful a draw as breeding may be, it nevertheless still falls short of bucks’ desire for safety. No doubt, many readers have seen rutting bucks do careless things during the rut, and I won’t argue that even mature bucks can let their guards down to an extent. I will argue that survival is still most important to them.

If survival and breeding are the two greatest desires of rutting bucks, I’d rank drinking as number three. The combination of cruising for, chasing and breeding does, as well as fighting off other bucks, is exhausting. To put this strain in perspective, mature bucks commonly lose 25 to 30 percent of their body weight in less than a month of breeding.

Just as with humans, these extreme workouts create a powerful thirst. Although deer can survive a surprisingly long time exclusively off their fat reserves, they must intake water regularly or risk dying. The physical exertions of the rut serve to further compound that need. Like humans, the harder they work, the more water they must intake–and rutting bucks work hard, indeed.

Watering also plays into the comfort factor. Sure, a buck’s desire for physical comfort ranks well below safety, breeding and the need to water, but it’s still a want. This can be seen firsthand when unseasonably warm temperatures shut down midday rutting activities. It gets to the point where the combination of the buck’s winter coat and high temperatures makes it too hot to run around the woods.

Finally, the desire to feed would round out a rutting buck’s primary wants. I understand that many seem to believe that rutting bucks don’t eat. I’ve just seen too many mature bucks feeding during this phase to buy that theory.